For those who don’t hit the trails or
campgrounds in the winter, the time
before spring can be a bit boring.
But there are things to do to get ready to
head out when the weather is a bit
warmer; it’s time to maintain your camping
equipment.
One piece of camping gear that needs a
once over before using it is the camp
stove.
Clean up any dirt that has sat over the
winter and look the stove over for any
problems. On liquid fuel stoves, replace
the generator, check the pump and empty
out any fuel that was left in the tank. Old
fuel will burn inefficiently and can gum up
the valve.
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Something as inexpensive as a generator on
your backpack stove can ruin a trip if it fails. A
few minutes replacing it and checking the
stove will keep your gear ready for the trail.
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It’s also a good time to pull you your camping lantern and check it out. I have lanterns
that run on liquid fuel and gas canisters, and no matter how often I clean them, there
always seems to be a few dead moths trapped inside the globe.
This is a good time to put on new mantels, but don’t burn them down until you are
ready to camp. They are so fragile, it is best to be safe and wait. And it is always a
good idea to have a supply of extra mantles on hand.
On the liquid fueled lanterns, you want to check the pump and replace the fuel
generator on these too.
Each spring I drive my wife a bit nuts with my annual sleeping bag cleaning and
repair madness.
There are a couple of ways to repair rips or holes in the sleeping bag, each
depending upon the type of material you are dealing with.
If the damage is on nylon, use nylon repair tape that is available at outdoors stores.
The tape is waterproof; sticks like crazy and when properly applied will form a
permanent repair.
Wipe the area to be taped with some rubbing alcohol to clean it, and when it is dry
cut a piece of tape that will overlap the edges of the hole by about an inch. Round
edges on the tape so they don’t get caught and pull off and then stick it on and press
it in place with a weight. I have repaired coats, a hole in a tent floor and a sleeping
bag with this and it has held up very well.
On bags with a cotton shell or flannel lining it is best to sew the rip, as the repair tape
will not hold on such a porous surface.
To clean the bags, I head to a laundry mat and use the largest washing machine that
is available. Do not try and wash a sleeping bag in a home washer, it will destroy the
bags.
Follow the manufactures instructions on washing the bags, and with synthetic bags
you can either dry them on the lowest heat setting in a commercial dryer, or hang
them on the line to air dry. If you use a dryer, take care on the heat setting. Some
synthetic fill has a very low melting point and high temperatures will damage it. If you
have any doubts on cleaning the bags, contact the manufacture for instructions.
The first time I had to clean my down sleeping bag, I called the firm Feathered
Friends in Seattle Washington for some advice. They make some of the best down
bags around and if anyone knows how to clean a bag, they do.
Their recommendation is to use a cleaner that is specifically meant for down, and to
wash the bag in a commercial washer, twice. The first time with the down cleaner and
the second time with plain water to make sure there is no residue from the cleaner
left on the down.
Drying a down bag can take some time, and again, I was told to use a commercial
dryer at the lowest setting. One thing they said not to do was to place anything hard
in the dryer to help break up the down. It can damage the seams on the bag causing
the down to shift. I knotted up a couple of hand towels and tossed them in. It took a
few cycles on low to get it dry but in the end the bag was clean and retained its loft.
Once the bags are clean, do not store them compressed in stuff bags as this can
cause them to lose their loft. I hang my three bags in a closet so they can fully
expand and are always aired out.
Last on the cleaning list is waterproof breathable outerwear. This can be washed at
home, just follow the wash instructions provided with the garment.
When you wash waterproof breathable clothing, do not use liquid detergent. There
are compounds in the liquids that break down the surface tension of water on fabric.
Some of these compounds can remain on the clothing, reducing the water repellency
of the gear. Use powdered detergents or cleaners intended for waterproof
breathable fabric.
The only problem with doing this work is that when you are done, you will really be
anxious to head out camping, and now you will be ready.
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